Simple Sink Console

Happy Memorial Day, everyone!  I hope you all are having a wonderful day, celebrating with family and friends and remembering what is important.  It is also my mom and step-father's anniversary, so Happy Anniversary, you crazy kids.

I love sink consoles.  I think they add so much character to a bathroom while getting rid of that "builder grade" feeling of the built-in.  As with most furniture items from Pottery Barn, I always look at their sink consoles and go: "Wow!  That is so cute!  And, that would be SO easy to build!  Why are they charging $2,000 for that?!"  You guys may remember when I hacked Napoleon a few months back, and since I'm very busy planning our VERY near future bath remodel, I was in a bathroom kind of mood.  So, here you go!  Here are the plans for Pottery Barn's Classic Single Sink Console.

Estimated Cost: $75-100


Dimensions as listed above.

Shopping List:


4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 1 - 1x3 @ 6 feet long 1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long 1 - 1x8 @ 10 feet long (NOTE: It is very important that your 1x8 is 7 1/4" wide.  If it is not, purchase a 1x10 and rip it down to 7 3/4".) 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long 1 - 2x2 @ 10 feet long 1 - scrap of 1/4" plywood at least 32" x 12" 1 - 1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood

Hardware and Supplies:

3 - Knobs or Drawer Pulls 1 - set of 12" Bottom Mount Drawer Slides 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws 1 1/4" Regular Wood Screws 1 1/4″ Finishing Nails Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain


Kreg Jig Miter Saw Circular or Jig Saw (For cutting plywood. You could also use a table saw.) Drill Countersink Bit Finishing Nailer Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses

Cut List:


6 - 1x2 @ 4 1/2" - Drawer Trim (short) 1 - 1x2 @ 7 1/2" - False Drawer Trim (center) 4 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4" - False Drawer Trim (long) 2 - 1x2 @ 32 3/4" - Drawer Trim (long) 1 - 1x2 @ 33" - Front Trim 4 - 1x2 @ 21 1/2" - Side Trim 2 - 1x3 @ 33" - Vanity Top Trim 1 - 1x6 @ 32" - Drawer Back 2 - 1x6 @ 11 1/4" - Drawer Sides 1 - 1x8 @ 32 3/4" - Drawer Front 1 - 1x8 @ 33" - False Drawer Front 1 - 1x8 @ 33" - Back Support 2 - 2x2 @ 33" - Bottom Shelf Trim (long) 2 - 2x2 @ 21 1/2" - Bottom Shelf Trim (short) 4 - 2x2 @ 35 3/4" - Legs 1 - 2x2 @ 33" - Bottom Drawer Divider


1 - 1/4" Plywood scrap @ 32" x 12" - Drawer Bottom 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 33" x 21 1/2" - Bottom Shelf 2 - 3/4" Plywood @ 21 1/2" x 18 1/4" - Sides

General Instructions:

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step.  Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact.  (Especially when working with doors and drawers!)  Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.  Please read through the entire plan before getting started.

Plywood Cuts:

Here is a basic cutting diagram for your 3/4" plywood.  When you purchase your plywood, have them cut the piece lengthwise at 21 1/2".  That way, when you get it home, you only have to make one cut per piece.  (Plus, if you're like me with our Matrix hatchback, this way it will actually fit in your car!)

Step 1:

Assemble the side of the vanity as shown above.  Make sure that there is a 3/4" gap between the front of your plywood and the edge of the 2x2.  Also, make sure that your pocket holes go on the inside of what will be the cabinet, I just marked them on the outside so that you could better see where they go.

Step 2:

Add trim to the top and bottom edge.  Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the second side.

Step 3:

Here's the fun part where it starts to look like something.  Attach the shelf, back support, and one of the pieces of the vanity top trim as shown above.

Step 4:

Add 2x2 bottom shelf trim using the pocket holes that you pre-drilled in the previous step.  (It will be easier if you flip the whole piece over while completing this step.)  The top of the 2x2 should be flush with the top of your plywood.

Step 5:

Flip your sink console so that you are now working on the front side.  Make sure to drill your pocket hole screws on the INSIDE to hide them.  Leave a 3/4" gap on the front of your false drawer front to allow for trim in the later steps.

Step 6:

Add your second piece of top trim above your false drawer front.  The front of the 1x3 should be flush with the edges of your 2x2 legs.

Step 7:

When adding the bottom drawer divider, it is important that your measurements are exact.  Before adding this piece, double check the width of your 1x8 drawer front to once again confirm it is 7 1/2" wide.  Some of them come as 7 1/4", which is why I notated in the shopping list to make sure your board is wide enough.

A trick to making sure your board is exactly 7 3/4" from the bottom of your 1x2 is to cut a scrap piece of wood to 7 3/4" and use it as a "spacer" while screwing in your bottom drawer divider.  I did this when building the Madison Dresser - head over there for photos and better description on this trick.  (Check out step 7 on the dresser.)

Step 8:

Build your drawer interior as shown above.

Step 9:

Install your drawer slides and insert your drawer.  When installing your slides the interior of the drawer should sit right behind your 2x2 bottom drawer divider, leaving room for your drawer front and trim.

To install your drawer front, center it into the space, leaving a 1/8" gap all the way around it, and secure it with finishing nails.  Once it's tight enough to pull out, remove the drawer and further secure it using the pocket hole screws that you pre-drilled in the previous step.

Step 10:

Add all of your drawer trim.

Once you have finished your piece, add your knobs/drawer pulls.


Finish your project as desired.  Make sure to sand it down with medium grit sand paper and fill in all your holes with wood filler before tackling that paint or stain.  For more tips on finishing, visit The Lazy Girl’s Guide to Finishing.

5 Replies to “Simple Sink Console”

  1. Hi! I really like this plan- thanks! I do have a question about modifying the width of the piece. I’m looking to replace an old cabinet that is 54″ wide, with a sink in the middle. I think to make this unit 54″ wide there would need to be some supports. Can you give some advice? Thanks 🙂

  2. I used my labor day (3 years later) and modified your plans to build a vanity for my bathroom. I shortened it to 34″ high and 21″ deep, and added doors instead of the drawer because we need the additional storage space.

    Thanks so much for posting this!

  3. Hi,

    The Pottery Barn vanity this is based on comes with its own vanity top. Most vanity tops that you buy separately are 37 x22. What vanity top did you use that worked on your 36″ x 24 1/2″ vanity base?



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