If you're visiting, definitely grab a Butter Beer. It's a must. (And, unlike the previous day, completely non-alcoholic!) It tastes a lot like if you mixed root beer and butterscotch together. Yum.
Anyway, enough vacation pictures. Lets get down to business.
This coffee table is the beginning of a rather large outdoor collection that I'm working on based on Restoration Hardware's Belvedere Collection. I'm building several of the pieces, and I will post plans for even more so that you can have a full set. I love this collection because it's really easy to build and inexpensive. (This coffee table can be built for under $50!)
One thing to mention as you're going into building outdoor furniture: you should really consider using redwood or cedar. If you're painting, cheap-o pine will do the trick, but if you're staining or leaving it natural you're going to want something naturally bug and rot resistant. One way that I've found to save costs when it comes to outdoor wood is to purchase it rough. I own a bench top planer, and that thing has definitely saved me quite a bit of money in lumber costs by being able to plane my wood at home.
I know that it's still snowing where quite a few of you live, and the groundhog did see his shadow this year, but in LA it's almost time for spring. And, you know what that means! Lots of fun outdoor entertaining! I need to get you guys prepared. So, enjoy the coffee table! Lots more to come!
Estimated Cost: $50
Dimensions:Dimensions as listed above.
Wood:1 - 1x3 @ 1 foot long 1 - 1x4 @ 4 feet long 2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long (If your 1x8s are 7 1/2" wide, rip them down to 7 1/4" for this plan.) 3 - 1x10 @ 8 foot (or, if possible, 1 @ 9 feet long and 1 @ 8 feet long to minimize waste.) 2 - 2x2 @ 5 feet long
Hardware and Supplies:1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws 2″ Screws 1 1/4″ Finishing Nails Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain
Tools:Kreg Jig Miter Saw Drill Countersink Bit Finishing Nailer Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses
Cut List:4 - 1x3 @ 2 1/2" - Feet 4 - 1x4 @ 9" - Legs 2 - 1x8 @ 50 1/2" - Side (long) 2 - 1x8 @ 27" - Side (short) 5 - 1x10 @ 32 1/2" - Top Slats 2 - 2x2 @ 50 1/2" - Cleats
General Instructions:Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step. Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact. (Especially when working with doors and drawers!) Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit. Please read through the entire plan before getting started.
Step 1:Attach the table legs to the short side using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. The top of the 1x8 should be flush with the top of your sides. (As noted in the "shopping list", measure your 1x8s before attaching them. If they are 7 1/2" wide or wider, rip them down to 7 1/4".) Repeat this step to get your second assembled side.
Step 2:Attach the long side 1x8 boards to your assembled short sides using your Kreg Jig as shown above.
Attach the 2x2 cleats to the long sides of your frame by countersinking 2" screws through them. To make this step easier, you may want to pre-drill your holes in your cleats so that you're not trying to hold on to the board at the same time that you're drilling. Make sure to leave a 3/4" gap above the cleats to allow for your top slats to slide into. (A helpful tip to make this perfect: pre-cut your 1x8s and line up a scrap piece above your cleat with the top flush with the top of your frame. Butt your 2x2 cleat up against it and clamp it into place. Now, when you remove the 1x8 scrap, your cleat should be in the correct place.)