Wood:1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long 6 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long At least 5 pieces of 3/4" x 3/4" moulding (pictured in this model is 1 - 8 foot long piece of quarter round for the doors and half round for the top and back.) 2 - scraps of 1/4" plywood at least 19 3/4" x 11 3/4"
Hardware and Supplies:2 - knobs or pulls 2 - sets of inset euro style hinges (I prefer these) 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws 5/8" Finishing Nails 1 1/4" Finishing Nails Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain
Tools:Kreg Jig Miter Saw Table Saw Drill Finishing Nailer Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses
Cut List:4 - 1x2 @ 23 3/4" - Side Trim 1 - 1x3 @ 11 1/2" - Center Front Trim 4 - 1x3 @ 6 1/4" - Door Trim (short) 4 - 1x3 @ 19 3/4" - Door Trim (long) 1 - 1x12 @ 84" - Cubby Center 3 - 1x12 @ 10 3/4" - Center Divider (top side cubbies and back cubby) 1- 1x12 @ 10" - Center Divider (top center cubby) 2 - 1x12 @ 84" - Backs 2 - 1x12 @ 87" - Base/Top 2 - 1x12 (ripped to 10" wide) @ 23 3/4" - Sides 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 19 3/4" x 11 1/4" - Door Backs Moulding cut to fit
General Instructions:Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step. Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact. (Especially when working with doors and drawers!) Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit. Please read through the entire plan before getting started.
Attach your side trim to your sides by either using your Kreg Jig or by countersinking 1 1/4" screws through your 1x2s. Keep in mind that your sides are 1x12s that have been ripped down to 10" wide. Pre-drill your pocket hole screws on the top and bottom of your side to prepare for the next step. Repeat this step to create your second side.
Step 2:Add your 1x12 base and top pieces by screwing it into the pocket holes that you created in step 1.
Step 3:Add the 1x12 center cubby to your sides using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. It should sit exactly in the center, leaving 11 1/2" on each side of the board. (One way to make sure that the center is perfectly centered is to place a scrap 1x12 on either side of it before you screw it in.)
Step 4:Lets start with the back side. Attach the back of the bottom cubby using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. The board should sit inset with the bottom and center cubby. The center divider for your back cubby is centered between the two sides, leaving a 41 5/8" gap on either side of the board. Attach it on all three sides using pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. (Don't forget your wood glue!)
Step 5:Now that your back side is done, shift your focus to work on the front side of the cubby. Just like in step 4, the back of the compartment sits inset with the cubby's center and top. Secure your center dividers into the top, bottom, and back using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. (Reference the measurements above as to where to position your dividers.)
Step 6:The center divider in the middle is a little different than the previous ones. Attach your center divider and center front trim together using your Kreg Jig before inserting the entire piece into your cubby. The front trim is centered over your board. (There should be a 7/8" overhang on each side of your 1x3.) Once they are joined, you can add the entire center piece to the cubby with your Kreg Jig. Use the measurements as shown above in the diagram to make sure that your divider is centered.
Construct your front cubby doors as shown above. In my opinion, the strongest and easiest way to do this would be to attach your long and short door trim together first using your Kreg Jig. Once you have the frame together, add your 1/4" plywood door back using 5/8" finishing nails and wood glue.
Step 8:Install your doors by following the manufacturers instructions as per your hinges. Make sure to leave a 1/8" gap all the way around your doors for easy opening. On the "Chelsea Bed" by PB Teen, they have their doors opening upward, meaning your hinges would be installed inside on the top of your cubby, and your hardware would be centered on the bottom of the door. But, another great option is to install your hinges on the sides to allow your doors to open like a standard cabinet.
Moulding:Since you just built your doors, lets start there. Measure your quarter round, cove, or cap moulding to fit inside your door frame, mitering the corners as you cut. When you secure the moulding with finishing nails and wood glue, be sure that your nails are going through the 3/4" trim rather than the 1/4" door back.
Add half round or any other 3/4" moulding of your choice, mitering the corners, all the way around the top of the cubby with 1 1/4" finishing nails and wood glue. Make sure to also fill in the back as that part is visible, too!
Finish your project as desired. Make sure to sand it down with medium grit sand paper and fill in all your holes with wood filler before tackling that paint or stain. For more tips on finishing, visit The Lazy Girl’s Guide to Finishing.