Madison Bed Cubby

Do you guys ever just feel like there aren't enough hours in the day?  Or, like you need just one more weekend day to get everything done that you wanted to?  That's how I'm feeling right about now.  My husband and I are going out of town next week for our first vacation since our honeymoon, which feels like a really long time even though it was only a year and a half ago.  I feel like I'm trying to push two weeks into one to get everything done.  But, I'm so excited to take a much needed life break next week.  It's hard to relax at home when there's work emails that are coming through every minute and a garage that's constantly calling my name and a voice in the back of my mind telling me I need to get my butt back in the gym and a kitchen that doesn't clean itself and... you guys know what I'm talking about.  Sometimes you just have to leave everything behind and go to Disney World for a week. Anyway, back to business.  I really hope one of you guys builds this bed.  It's just so unexpectedly different and full of storage.  I love it.  Maybe I can talk someone into letting me build it for them... I posted the plans for the platform section of the bed last week, and here is the follow up for the cubby.  Just for fun, here's another view of the back to see the immense amount of storage in this thing. One important thing to note before starting this plan is that you should make sure that your 1x12s are exactly 11 1/2" wide.  This plan is very dependent on standardized board sizes, and if your boards run 11 1/4" wide or smaller, please make note of it and modify accordingly.  Enjoy! Estimated Cost: $80


Dimensions as shown above.

Shopping List:


1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long 6 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long At least 5 pieces of 3/4" x 3/4" moulding (pictured in this model is 1 - 8 foot long piece of quarter round for the doors and half round for the top and back.) 2 - scraps of 1/4" plywood at least 19 3/4" x 11 3/4"

Hardware and Supplies:

2 - knobs or pulls 2 - sets of inset euro style hinges (I prefer these) 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws 5/8" Finishing Nails 1 1/4" Finishing Nails Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain


Kreg Jig Miter Saw Table Saw Drill Finishing Nailer Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses

Cut List:

4 - 1x2 @ 23 3/4" - Side Trim 1 - 1x3 @ 11 1/2" - Center Front Trim 4 - 1x3 @ 6 1/4" - Door Trim (short) 4 - 1x3 @ 19 3/4" - Door Trim (long) 1 - 1x12 @ 84" - Cubby Center 3 - 1x12 @ 10 3/4" - Center Divider (top side cubbies and back cubby) 1- 1x12 @ 10" - Center Divider (top center cubby) 2 - 1x12 @ 84" - Backs 2 - 1x12 @ 87" - Base/Top 2 - 1x12 (ripped to 10" wide) @ 23 3/4" - Sides 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 19 3/4" x 11 1/4" - Door Backs Moulding cut to fit

General Instructions:

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step.  Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact.  (Especially when working with doors and drawers!)  Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.  Please read through the entire plan before getting started.

Step 1:


Attach your side trim to your sides by either using your Kreg Jig or by countersinking 1 1/4" screws through your 1x2s.  Keep in mind that your sides are 1x12s that have been ripped down to 10" wide.  Pre-drill your pocket hole screws on the top and bottom of your side to prepare for the next step.  Repeat this step to create your second side.

Step 2:

Add your 1x12 base and top pieces by screwing it into the pocket holes that you created in step 1.

Step 3:

Add the 1x12 center cubby to your sides using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.  It should sit exactly in the center, leaving 11 1/2" on each side of the board.  (One way to make sure that the center is perfectly centered is to place a scrap 1x12 on either side of it before you screw it in.)

Step 4:

Lets start with the back side. Attach the back of the bottom cubby using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.  The board should sit inset with the bottom and center cubby. The center divider for your back cubby is centered between the two sides, leaving a 41 5/8" gap on either side of the board.  Attach it on all three sides using pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.  (Don't forget your wood glue!)

Step 5:

Now that your back side is done, shift your focus to work on the front side of the cubby.  Just like in step 4, the back of the compartment sits inset with the cubby's center and top.  Secure your center dividers into the top, bottom, and back using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.  (Reference the measurements above as to where to position your dividers.)

Step 6:

The center divider in the middle is a little different than the previous ones.  Attach your center divider and center front trim together using your Kreg Jig before inserting the entire piece into your cubby.  The front trim is centered over your board.  (There should be a 7/8" overhang on each side of your 1x3.)  Once they are joined, you can add the entire center piece to the cubby with your Kreg Jig.  Use the measurements as shown above in the diagram to make sure that your divider is centered.

Step 7:

Construct your front cubby doors as shown above.  In my opinion, the strongest and easiest way to do this would be to attach your long and short door trim together first using your Kreg Jig.  Once you have the frame together, add your 1/4" plywood door back using 5/8" finishing nails and wood glue.

Step 8:

Install your doors by following the manufacturers instructions as per your hinges.  Make sure to leave a 1/8" gap all the way around your doors for easy opening.  On the "Chelsea Bed" by PB Teen, they have their doors opening upward, meaning your hinges would be installed inside on the top of your cubby, and your hardware would be centered on the bottom of the door.  But, another great option is to install your hinges on the sides to allow your doors to open like a standard cabinet.


Since you just built your doors, lets start there.  Measure your quarter round, cove, or cap moulding to fit inside your door frame, mitering the corners as you cut.  When you secure the moulding with finishing nails and wood glue, be sure that your nails are going through the 3/4" trim rather than the 1/4" door back.

Add half round or any other 3/4" moulding of your choice, mitering the corners, all the way around the top of the cubby with 1 1/4" finishing nails and wood glue.  Make sure to also fill in the back as that part is visible, too!

The last bit of moulding is on the back of your cubby around the edge of the back side.  You know the drill: miter the corners, attach with 1 1/4" finishing nails and wood glue.


Finish your project as desired.  Make sure to sand it down with medium grit sand paper and fill in all your holes with wood filler before tackling that paint or stain.  For more tips on finishing, visit The Lazy Girl’s Guide to Finishing.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *