Dimensions:Dimensions as shown above.
Wood:5 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long 8 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long 3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
Hardware and Supplies:1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws 1 1/4" Finishing Nails 2" Finishing Nails 2 1/2" Finishing Nails Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain
Tools:Kreg Jig Miter Saw Table Saw Drill Finishing Nailer Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses
Cut List:2 - 1x2 @ 36" - Bottom Support 9 - 1x2 @ 9 7/8", mitered at 45 degrees on each side parallel to each other - Center Herringbone (both sides touching middle) 9 - 1x2 @ 9" measured from the long ends, mitered at 45 degrees on each side NOT parallel to each other - Center Herringbone (longer piece, one side touching middle, one side touching the top/bottom) 9 - 1x2 @ 4 3/8" measured from the long ends, mitered at 45 degrees on each side NOT parallel to each other - Center Herringbone (shorter piece, one side touching middle, one side touching the top/bottom) 8 - 1x2 @ 3 5/8", measured from the long ends, mitered at 45 degrees on each side NOT parallel to each other - Side Herringbone (shorter piece, one side touching middle, one side touching the top/bottom) 16 - 1x2 @ 11 5/8", mitered at 45 degrees on each side parallel to each other - Side Herringbone (both sides touching middle) 17 - 1x3 @ 39" - Slats 16 - 2x2 @ 18" - Center Herringbone Supports 2 - 2x2 @ 8 1/4" - Center Legs 2 - 2x2 @ 75" - Cleats 4 - 2x2 @ 30" - Legs 2 - 2x2 @ 39" - Side Top 1 - 2x2 @ 75" - Back Top 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Back/Front Bottom 2 - 2x4 @ 39" - Side Bottom
General Instructions:Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step. Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact. (Especially when working with doors and drawers!) Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit. Please read through the entire plan before getting started. Also, for this particular project, I would cut as you go. The herringbone pieces should be cut to fit as sometimes there is discrepancy between the gaps.
Step 1:Attach your legs, back top and bottom as shown above to create the back of your daybed. You can join them using either your Kreg Jig or by countersinking 2 1/2" screws into your legs. Your 2x4 bottom piece should be attached 7" from the base of your legs.
Step 2:Before joining, place your 2x2 center herringbone supports into your frame, leaving 7" of space in between all of them. It's very important that these are spaced correctly or else your herringbone won't work out. Attach them to the frame using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.
Step 3:Here's where it starts to get a little tricky. There are three different sizes of herringbone in the back: a small piece that touches the top and side, a center piece that touches the sides only, and a bottom piece that touches the side and bottom. I've listed out very carefully how to cut each piece in the cut list, but the most important thing to be wary of is your miters. Notice that the top and bottom pieces are not mitered parallel, but the center piece is. Attach your herringbone pieces with 1 1/4" finishing nails. Also, make sure to use wood glue!
Step 4:Take the same pattern that you created in step 3 and flip it upside down. This now creates the pattern you will need for the other side of your herringbone.
Step 5:Create your side frame very similarly to how you you built the back in step 1, except instead of cutting 2 legs, one side should be attached to your already built frame.
Step 6:Add your herringbone center supports to your side frame just like you did in step 2. Note that the supports are 8 5/8" apart on the sides, which is a little wider than they were on the back.
Step 7:Beginning to feel déjà vu? Ah, yes. But, this one is a bit different than step 3. Instead of having only one center piece, there are 2 parallel-mitered center pieces on each side. (It just worked out that way with the longer measurements.) So, you have two identical herringbone pieces on the bottom, and one shorter, NOT parallel mitered piece on the top touching the top 2x2 and side. Nail and glue them in just like in step 3.
Step 9:Repeat steps 5-8 to create the right side of your daybed.
Step 10:Attach the 2x4 bottom front to your front legs by either using your Kreg Jig from the inside or countersinking 2 1/2" screws from the outside of your legs. It should sit 7" up from the ground.
Attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside of your 2x4s by countersinking several 2 1/2" screws through the front of your cleat into the 2x4. (Note: it is important that these are very strong. We put about 5-10 screws on each side with wood glue to make sure that these suckers didn't go anywhere.) It is easier to predrill your countersink holes while your 2x2s are on a table or on the floor rather than held in place on the bed. (In my case, I used a drill press.)
When placing them, make sure to leave a 3/4" gap on the top to leave room for your slats.
Step 12:Attach your slats to the cleats by countersinking 1 1/4" screws on each side. You should leave about 2" in between your slats. They won't fit perfectly end to end, you'll have some space on one side. Remember to use wood glue!
This step is optional, but if you want to add a little extra support for "heavier loads", add 2 2x2 feet connected by bottom supports that are screwed into your cleats. We didn't do this, but I wanted to add the step just in case you decided add more strength to your bed.