Stacy Daybed

I was so excited when my good friend, Stacy, of People Just Float decided to come down for a building visit.  She lives up in the bay area, so I very rarely get to see her.  (Luckily her twin sister lives down here in LA, so can use her to lure Stacy into my garage.)  Stacy is the one who originally introduced me to Ana White and the world of DIY, and I will forever be grateful to her. Stacy wanted a daybed that she could use as a sofa, but also could double as a bed for guests.  She loved Ana's Rectangles Day Bed based on West Elm's Windows Daybed, but wanted something a little different.  I have an out of control obsession with all things herringbone, so I suggested we try to mimic that look with lumber.  I sent her my sketch-up pictures and she was very trustingly on-board.  (Pun intended.) Although this was Stacy's first furniture building project, she was absolutely amazing.  A natural.  Seriously.  There were times when we were just working and didn't need to talk to each other because we knew what to do.  I'm usually kind of a lone wolf when it comes to my projects, but Stacy can come crash my garage anytime (wink wink). That being said, I would not recommend this as anyone else's first project.  The pattern with the mitered cuts is deceptively tricky.  But, in my opinion, well worth the effort as ours turned out great. Estimated Cost: $50-75

Dimensions:

Dimensions as shown above.

Shopping List:

Wood:

5 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long 8 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long 3 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

Hardware and Supplies:

1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws 1 1/4" Finishing Nails 2" Finishing Nails 2 1/2" Finishing Nails Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain

Tools:

Kreg Jig Miter Saw Table Saw Drill Finishing Nailer Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses

Cut List:

2 - 1x2 @ 36" - Bottom Support 9 - 1x2 @ 9 7/8", mitered at 45 degrees on each side parallel to each other - Center Herringbone (both sides touching middle) 9 - 1x2 @ 9" measured from the long ends, mitered at 45 degrees on each side NOT parallel to each other - Center Herringbone (longer piece, one side touching middle, one side touching the top/bottom) 9 - 1x2 @ 4 3/8" measured from the long ends, mitered at 45 degrees on each side NOT parallel to each other - Center Herringbone (shorter piece, one side touching middle, one side touching the top/bottom) 8 - 1x2 @ 3 5/8", measured from the long ends, mitered at 45 degrees on each side NOT parallel to each other - Side Herringbone (shorter piece, one side touching middle, one side touching the top/bottom) 16 - 1x2 @ 11 5/8", mitered at 45 degrees on each side parallel to each other - Side Herringbone (both sides touching middle) 17 - 1x3 @ 39" - Slats 16 - 2x2 @ 18" - Center Herringbone Supports 2 - 2x2 @ 8 1/4" - Center Legs 2 - 2x2 @ 75" - Cleats 4 - 2x2 @ 30" - Legs 2 - 2x2 @ 39" - Side Top 1 - 2x2 @ 75" - Back Top 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Back/Front Bottom 2 - 2x4 @ 39" - Side Bottom

General Instructions:

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step.  Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact.  (Especially when working with doors and drawers!)  Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.  Please read through the entire plan before getting started. Also, for this particular project, I would cut as you go.  The herringbone pieces should be cut to fit as sometimes there is discrepancy between the gaps.

Step 1:

Attach your legs, back top and bottom as shown above to create the back of your daybed.  You can join them using either your Kreg Jig or by countersinking 2 1/2" screws into your legs.  Your 2x4 bottom piece should be attached 7" from the base of your legs.

Step 2:

Before joining, place your 2x2 center herringbone supports into your frame, leaving 7" of space in between all of them.  It's very important that these are spaced correctly or else your herringbone won't work out.  Attach them to the frame using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.

Step 3:

Here's where it starts to get a little tricky.  There are three different sizes of herringbone in the back: a small piece that touches the top and side, a center piece that touches the sides only, and a bottom piece that touches the side and bottom.  I've listed out very carefully how to cut each piece in the cut list, but the most important thing to be wary of is your miters.  Notice that the top and bottom pieces are not mitered parallel, but the center piece is. Attach your herringbone pieces with 1 1/4" finishing nails.  Also, make sure to use wood glue!

Step 4:

Take the same pattern that you created in step 3 and flip it upside down.  This now creates the pattern you will need for the other side of your herringbone.

Step 5:

Create your side frame very similarly to how you you built the back in step 1, except instead of cutting 2 legs, one side should be attached to your already built frame.

Step 6:

Add your herringbone center supports to your side frame just like you did in step 2.  Note that the supports are 8 5/8" apart on the sides, which is a little wider than they were on the back.

Step 7:

Beginning to feel déjà vu?  Ah, yes.  But, this one is a bit different than step 3.  Instead of having only one center piece, there are 2 parallel-mitered center pieces on each side.  (It just worked out that way with the longer measurements.)  So, you have two identical herringbone pieces on the bottom, and one shorter, NOT parallel mitered piece on the top touching the top 2x2 and side.  Nail and glue them in just like in step 3.

Step 8:

Flip the design from step 7 to use on the other side of your completed herringbone.

Step 9:

Repeat steps 5-8 to create the right side of your daybed.

Step 10:

Attach the 2x4 bottom front to your front legs by either using your Kreg Jig from the inside or countersinking 2 1/2" screws from the outside of your legs.  It should sit 7" up from the ground.

Step 11:

Attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside of your 2x4s by countersinking several 2 1/2" screws through the front of your cleat into the 2x4.  (Note: it is important that these are very strong.  We put about 5-10 screws on each side with wood glue to make sure that these suckers didn't go anywhere.)  It is easier to predrill your countersink holes while your 2x2s are on a table or on the floor rather than held in place on the bed.  (In my case, I used a drill press.)

When placing them, make sure to leave a 3/4" gap on the top to leave room for your slats.

Step 12:

Attach your slats to the cleats by countersinking 1 1/4" screws on each side.  You should leave about 2" in between your slats.  They won't fit perfectly end to end, you'll have some space on one side.  Remember to use wood glue!

Step 13:

This step is optional, but if you want to add a little extra support for "heavier loads", add 2 2x2 feet connected by bottom supports that are screwed into your cleats.  We didn't do this, but I wanted to add the step just in case you decided add more strength to your bed.

Finishing:

Finish your project as desired.  Make sure to sand it down with medium grit sand paper and fill in all your holes with wood filler before tackling that paint or stain.  For more tips on finishing, visit The Lazy Girl’s Guide to Finishing.

27 Replies to “Stacy Daybed”

  1. Yay! So great to see the plans made public! 😉 The bed is amazing, and the whole fam (particularly the animals) are getting a lot of use out of it. Now… what to build next? 😀

  2. Love this and looking for a reason to build it! But since I’m usually building for other people, how might I make this where it is easily disassembled for moving?

    1. Hi Jen! Trust me – I know the feeling. I’m always building for other people, too! We actually did have to move this daybed. Stacy lives in Northern California, so it was a 6 hr drive for her in her hatchback. We seperated it out into 4 pieces: the 2 sides, the back, and the bottom slats/front apron. We added an extra 2×2 on the sides that screwed into the back piece rather than having the herringbone directly connect to the back piece. (You can see that in the picture.) You can also screw your slats into your cleats, attach the front apron, and then when you get to your destination, screw the unattached cleat/slats to the back of your daybed. Hopefully this helps!

  3. Saw this on Pinterest and followed the link back to here. Very excited to see such clear, concise directions! We want to build a daybed and this is just gorgeous! Thanks so much for sharing the tutorial!!!

  4. I love how detailed this was! I planned on buying a daybed but I’d rather make one for over half the price! Just wondering if you knew, what size bed do you think if fits? (Like a twin, full, ect)

  5. Thank you for sharing the plans.

    My husband and I bought our home three years ago, and we have all hand me down furniture. I’m ready to upgrade to something more our style, but don’t have the cash to spend on expensive furniture.

    I love this idea for our home office due to all of my husband’s family living out of town. This will provide extra sleeping arrangements. I plan to build a trundle that would fit underneath this design.

    Bonus: I’m a fan of West Elm. To have that look but not the price is a HUGE bonus.

  6. “Eureka, I found it!”. You know the feeling, sweaty palms, palpitating heart, and a big smile on my face. Been looking for a great daybed to use in my modern mountain home for months. Will use this as a sofa/ guest bed. Can’t have enough beds in a vacation home. Great design!

  7. This is beautiful! The herringbone pattern is beyond my level of expertise, though. Would the bed be structurally sound if I left out the diagonal pieces and built it with just the vertical supports?

  8. This is beautiful! I’m moving and would like a day bed trundle in the guest room. If this design was raised could it accommodate a trundle? Thanks!

  9. Love the plan, picked up the lumber today. Going out to the shop to make the cuts. It will be a surprise for the wife. I made a bookshelf for the computer room this past weekend from your site, now the daybed for the same room. I’m kinda OCD and like to have printed plans out in the shop. Dust is bad for the laptop. I put your plans into a PDF to print. Figured I would share them for anyone who wants it.

    Printable PDF

  10. Is there a way to cover the herringbone with fabric to make it look more like a traditional sofa? Maybe like a padded slip cover that I could take on and off to cover the herringbone pattern when I needed too?

  11. I am building this for my parents and need to accommodate for a pop up trundle to go underneath. I was just going to extend the length by a couple of inches, but need to increase the height of the legs by about 8″!! Can I still use 2×2’s and have the stability or do I need to go to 2×4’s? Love this and thank you for the great plans!!!

  12. I love this! I don’t feel I am experienced enough to do the herringbone though. Could someone leave those out easily? I love your step by step instructions! This is amazing. I would love to do this for my 4 year old with his full size bed. He needs a bit more space in his room and this would for my budget!

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