Oxford Bar Cabinet

Well, my friends... first and foremost, I need to apologize.  Most of you probably thought I was dead as I haven't posted anything new or even answered emails in quite some time.  It's been a rough few weeks.  As soon as I got back from Mexico, work has been a little crazy.  Lots of late nights and weekends trying to deliver a few movies.  I've even been building the exact same thing in my garage for 3 weeks.  (You know, a little time here, a little there whenever I get 10 minutes.)  It's out of control.  So, I'm sorry.  I don't want you to think that I forgot about you, and thanks for continuing to check back!

Anyway, moving on to the fun stuff!  I'm kind of obsessed with Pottery Barn's Cambridge Bar Cabinet.  I think it's just stunning - and so easy to build!  Enjoy the new plans!

 Estimated Cost: $100-150


See above for dimensions.

Shopping List:


1 - 6' piece of 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ craft board in your desired finish (these are actual dimensions) 1 - 8' piece of 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ craft board in your desired finish (these are actual dimensions) 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 12 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long 1 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long 2 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long 4 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long 1 - 1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood* 1 - scrap of 1/4" plywood at least 15 1/2" x 17 1/4"* *Like Ana White, I am committed to only using Pure Bond plywood in my home so as not to slowly kill off my family with formaldehyde.

Hardware and Supplies:

1 - set of euro inset hinges 1 - set of 14" bottom mount drawer slides 1 - piece of 1/4" thick glass or plexiglass cut to 15 1/4" x 15 1/4" 1 1/4" screws 2" screws 1 1/4" pocket hole screws 2 1/2" pocket hole screws 5/8" Finishing Nails 1 1/4" Finishing Nails 2" Finishing Nails Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain


Kreg Jig Miter Saw Jigsaw if cutting your own tabletop (or router if you decide to purchase the jig listed above.) Nailer Drill Right Angle Drill (not necessary, but very helpful when getting into small spaces like the wine holder.) Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses

Cut List:


2 - 1 1/2" Project Board pieces @ 18 1/4" - Back side of door 2 - 1 1/2" Project Board pieces @ 15 1/4" - Back top and bottom of door 4 - 2 1/2" Project Board Pieces @ 18 1/4" (Measured at the long side of your mitered cut.  Sides should be mitered at a 45 degree angle.)- Door Sides 1 - 1x2 @ 18 1/2" - Drawer Divider 1 - 1x2 @ 15" - Drawer Slide Mount 26 - 1x3 @ 25" - Plank Casing 6 - 1x3 @ 35" - Plank Top 2 - 1x4 @ 17 1/4" - Drawer Front/Back 2 - 1x4 @ 14" - Drawer Sides 1 - 1x6 @ 18 1/4" - Drawer Front 6 - 1x6 @ 16 1/2" (ripped to 4 1/2" wide. From now on will be mentioned as 1x5s) - Wine Dividers 4 - 2x2 @ 35" - Front and Back Top/Bottom 4 - 2x2 @ 15" - Side Top/Bottom 2 - 2x2 @ 25" - Center Divider 4 - 2x2 @ 31" - Legs


1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 17 1/4" x 15 1/2" - Drawer Bottom 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 35" x 15" - Bottom 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 3/4" x 15" - Center Divider 3 - 3/4" Plywood @ 16 1/2" x 15" - Wine Shelves

General Instructions:

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step.  Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact.  (Especially when working with doors and drawers!)  Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.  Please read through the entire plan before getting started.

Step 1:

Cut plywood as shown above.

Step 2:

 To create your side, first attach your 1x3 plank boards together to create a flat panel.  (Make sure to use wood glue!)  In making this panel, it helps to ensure that all of the "bend" is eliminated from your board to have a straight side.  Once that has been completed, Kreg Jig your panel to the top and bottom 1x2s flush to the back, leaving a 3/4" gap on the front.  (One trick to doing this is to put a scrap 1x board or 3/4" thick piece of plywood underneath your 1x3 planks when Kreg Jigging it into the 2x2.  That should remove the guesswork and give you the perfect 3/4" overhang when you're finished screwing the panel together.)  (PS - is Kreg Jigging a word?  If not, it totally should be.)

Step 3:

Attach your legs either by using your Kreg Jig or countersinking 3" screws through the sides into the top/bottom 2x2s that are attached to your panel.  The top of the 2x2 should be flush with the top of your panel.  Repeat steps 2-3 to create your other side.

Step 4:

Just like you created your sides in step 2, Kreg Jig your 1x3 planks together for the back and then attach them to your 2x2 top and bottom back.  Once your panel has been assembled, attach it to the back legs of each of your sides.

Step 5:

Attach your 2x2 front top/bottom boards using your Kreg Jig or by countersinking them into the side 2x2s using 3" screws and wood glue.  The top 2x2 should be flush with the top of the cabinet and the bottom piece should leave a 3" gap between the 2x2 and the ground.  It should be even with the surrounding bottom 2x2s.

Step 6:

Attach your plywood bottom into the casing using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.  The top of the plywood should be flush with the top of the front 2x2.  Also, make sure that your bottom is level before putting in the final screws!

Step 7:

Slide your 2x2 center divider into place using the dimensions shown above.  Secure using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.

Step 8:

Slide your plywood center divider into place in between the back and your 2x2 center divider.  When positioning, make sure that the right side (what will be your wine holder side) of the plywood is flush with the outside of the 2x2.  You will have a 3/4" gap on the left side of the plywood between that and the outside edge of your 2x2.  The measurements shown above represent the plywood's location in relation to the sides of the casing.

Step 9:

There are a few options for installing the wine holder side of the bar cabinet (Each of the three gaps for the wine bottles should be 4 1/2" wide):
  1. If you have a right angle drill that can fit into small spaces, you can use your Kreg Jig and attach your 1x5 wine dividers first to the bottom of the cabinet.  Once they're in place, attach the plywood top of the wine divider to top of the 1x5s and secure in place with your right angle drill from the inside using your Kreg Jig.
  2. If you don't have a right angle drill, you can attach the 1x5s to the base as described in option 1, but then attach the plywood top by countersinking it from the top into the dividers  using 1 1/4" screws.
  3. Another option is to attach the 1x5s to the plywood first, and then slide the entire piece into the console and secure using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.

Step 10:

Repeat step 9 twice more to get the full wine rack.

Step 11:

For the top, first attach all of your 1x3s planks together like you did for the sides.  To make this step easier, place the top plank section on the ground (top facing downward) and lay the console on top of it fitting the planks into the top opening.  This way, when you screw it together using your Kreg Jig, you know that your top is even and level.

Step 12:

Attach your drawer divider as shown above using your Kreg Jig.  Make sure that you leave  5 3/4" above your 1x2 to allow for your drawer.

Step 13:

Since the plywood center divider isn't flush with the left outside edge of the bar, we need to install a "drawer slide support" to build this out as a platform for your drawer slide.  Your 1x2 should fit directly above your drawer divider.  Attach with 1 1/4" screws and wood glue.

Step 14:


Assemble the four sides of your drawer first as shown above with your Kreg Jig.  Once you have your boards assembled, add the plywood bottom using finishing nails and wood glue.  (Since you are using bottom mount drawer slides, that will further secure the bottom of the drawer.)  Add your drawer slides as per the manufacturer's instructions, leaving a 3/4" gap between the front of the drawer and the end of your console to allow for the drawer front to fit into place.

Step 15:

Once your drawer slides are installed and the inside of your drawer is inserted into the drawer slot, place your drawer front over the opening leaving a 1/8" gap on all sides.  When you are satisfied with its placement, use finishing nails to secure the front to the inside of the drawer.  (This step is even easier if you turn the console onto its back.)

Step 16:

Glue your door sides together as shown above, making sure that your corners have been mitered at a 45 degree angle.

Step 17:

On top of your door sides, secure the back sides of the door to the front using 5/8" finishing nails and wood glue.  At this step, you may want to paint/stain your door before you add the glass.

Step 18:

Glue your glass or plexiglass into the inset using liquid nails or another strong adhesive.  You can also secure from the back using mirror clips for additional hold.

Step 19:

Install the door according to the manufacturer's instructions on your hinges.  This is an inset door and there should be 1/8" available on each side once installed to allow for easy opening (and closing!).

5 Replies to “Oxford Bar Cabinet”

  1. This is awesome looking. I’m going to leave out the wine bottle holders and just put in shelves on that side to make it into a tv stand for my son for Christmas. Great looking design. Thanks so much!

  2. Hi, Great plans. could you tell me what you ment by craft board and project board ? may sound silly but I have not heard the term before.

    Thanks , Jerry

    1. So cool, Hobey! I love it! Thanks for letting me know about the 1x3s… I have updated the plan to say “12” 1x3s instead of 10.

      I’ll be following along and look forward to seeing the finished product!

      Side Note: I am an Alpha Gamma Delta from Chapman University back in the day. Go Greek!

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