Dana Media Stand

I know, I know, ANOTHER Pottery Barn piece, but I really just couldn't resist.  It was too cute and simple and elegant and perfect.  I had to make plans for it.  I'm typically drawn to furniture that's a bit more substantial and masculine, but there was just something about the feminine lines of PB's Barrett Media Stand that I just couldn't pass up.  So, I apologize if I've gotten a bit predictable, but there will definitely be some non-PB pieces on the horizon.  (Otherwise, I may as well change the blog's name to "Pottery Barn Design".) Speaking of things on the horizon, I feel like I have about 20 unfinished projects going on at one time.  I have five half-built things and the lumber for another one sitting in my garage begging for some love and some time.  (Which happen to be the two things I haven't been able to give my garage lately.)  I am very excited for the weekend.  There will be lots of building going on.  Which means hopefully lots of posts next week.  So, bear with me.  Good stuff is on its way. PS- I always try to name my pieces something clever if they're not named after the person I'm building them for.  Anyone get the Dana Barrett reference?  Nerd alert, I know, but I couldn't resist.

Estimated Cost: $75-150

Dimensions:

See final dimensions above.

Shopping List:

Wood:

3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 1 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long 1 - 1x6 @ 9 feet long 1 - 2x2 @ 10 feet long 1/2 Sheet of 1/4" Plywood* 1 1/2 Sheets of 3/4" Plywood* *Like Ana White, I am committed to only using Pure Bond plywood in my home so as not to slowly kill off my family with formaldehyde.

Hardware and Supplies:

1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws 1 1/4" Finishing Nails 2 sets of euro inset hinges (I prefer these) 1 set of 16″ bottom mount drawer slides 2 sets of small mirror clips Glass or acrylic (cut to fit your doors). Hardware of your choice (2 for the doors, and 4 for the drawer) Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain

Tools:

Kreg Jig Jigsaw Circular or Table Saw (Optional, to get straighter lines when cutting your plywood. You could also use the Jigsaw for this. The table saw is also necessary if you're doing fake drawer fronts in step 11.) Miter Saw (Optional, but very helpful) Drill Nailer Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses

Cut List:

Boards:

1 - 1x2 @ 37" - Top Back Trim 4 - 1x2 @ 15 5/16" - Door Trim (long) 4 - 1x2 @ 12 3/4" - Door Trim (short) 2 - 1x2 @ 17" - Top Side Trim 1 - 1x3 @ 37" - Bottom Back Trim 2 - 1x3 @ 17" - Bottom Side Trim 1 - 1x3 @ 37" - Bottom Front Trim 2 - 1x6 @ 34 1/2" - Drawer Interior (front/back) 2 - 1x6 @ 16" - Drawer Interior (sides) 4 - 2x2 @ 29 1/4" - Legs

Plywood:

1 - 1/4" PLY @ 36" x 16" - Drawer Bottom 1 - 3/4" PLY @ 37" x 25 1/4" - Back 1 - 3/4" PLY @ 27" x 17 3/4" - Bottom Shelf 1 - 3/4" PLY @ 17 1/2" x 13" - Cabinet Center 1 - 3/4" PLY @ 37" x 18 1/2" - Center Divider 2 - 3/4" PLY @ 18 1/8" x 17 1/2" - Center Shelf 1 - 3/4" PLY @ 36 3/4" x 8 3/4" - Drawer Front 2 - 3/4" PLY @ 25 1/4" x 17" - Sides 1 - 2/4" PLY @ 42" x 22" - Top

General Instructions:

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step.  Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact.  (Especially when working with doors and drawers!)  Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.  Please read through the entire plan before getting started.

Step 1:

3/4" Plywood Sheet 1
3/4" Plywood Sheet 2
Cut your 3/4" plywood as shown above in the diagrams.  (I didn't do a diagram for your 1/4" plywood that you'll be needing later as it's just one piece - hopefully you can use up some leftovers from another project!)

Step 2:

Attach the side frame as shown above using your Kreg Jig.  the 1x boards are flush with the outside edge of the legs to leave room for your plywood in the next step.

Step 3:

Attach your plywood side to the back of your frame using your Kreg Jig on the right and left sides.  Further secure your plywood to the frame by using 1 1/4" finishing nails and wood glue from the back side into your 1x boards.  (Pictured above is a view from the back of your side panel so that you can see it easier.)  During this step, I would also recommend pre-drilling a few extra pocket holes in the top of your plywood sides  that you'll later use to attach the top of your console.  Repeat this step for the opposite side.

Step 4:

The back of your console goes together very similar to the sides.  Attach your 1x trim first on the top and bottom using your Kreg Jig, then secure your plywood back to the 2x2 sides with your Jig.  Further secure the top and bottom from the inside with finishing nails and glue.  Just like in the previous step, I recommend drilling a few extra pocket holes on the top of your plywood before attaching it to your 1xs.  It will prevent some headaches later when attaching your top :-).

Step 5:

Assemble the inner core of your media stand as shown above using your Kreg Jig.  This step is easiest if you lay the piece on its back and slide the bottom shelf and center divider into place.  Once those are in, the cabinet center should go in really easily.

Step 6:

There are two options for your shelves: fixed or adjustable.  If you would like fixed shelves, I've shown above the measurements to get them exactly centered in your console.  (Or, of course, place them wherever you'd like!  That's the great thing about building - everything is customizable!)  In that option, all you have to do is Kreg Jig them in.  Personally, I prefer to be able to adjust my shelves down the road.  I have one of these from Rockler, and it's super easy to make adjustable shelves with shelf pins.  It's not very expensive, and I highly recommend getting one if you do a lot of shelf-making.

Step 7:

This step is a bit tricky.  I've attached a diagram to show you how to cut your bottom trim using a jigsaw.  Draw a line 1 1/4" from the top all the way lengthwise across your board - you should only be cutting into the bottom half to make your design.

Step 8:

Attach your bottom trim flush to the bottom shelf using finishing nails and wood glue.

Step 9:

(IMPORTANT: Please read step 14 regarding glass front doors before proceeding on this step.)  Create your door frames as shown above using your Kreg Jig.  Leaving a 1/8" gap on all sides, attach them to your console using your hinges.  (Since you haven't put on your glass fronts yet, you can reach in through the front to screw in your hinges.  That should make your life a little easier.)

Step 10:

Build your drawer interior as shown above using your Kreg Jig for the sides and finishing nails and wood glue for your plywood bottom.  (Since you're using bottom mount drawer slides, that will further secure the bottom of the drawer.)  Install your drawer slides into the top section of the cabinet and make sure your drawer slides in and out easily.

Step 11:

This step is optional, but in the words of Elle Woods, I feel like it gives it "a little something extra."  On your table saw, set your blade to 1/4" tall and your fence to 3 1/2".  Run your board lengthwise on each side down your table saw, leaving 2 small notches that look like fake drawer fronts.

Step 12:

With your drawer interior in place, center your drawer front over the drawer, leaving 1/8" gap on each side.  Once it's perfectly centered, secure it onto the drawer using 1 1/4" finishing nails and wood glue.  (This step is the easiest if you turn the media stand on its back)

Step 13:

Attach your top using the predrilled pocket hole screws that you made in earlier steps.  There should be a 1" overhang on all sides.

Step 14:

If necessary, cut your glass pieces to fit inside of your doors, leaving space on the sides for your mirror clips, hinges, and knobs.  For a tutorial on how to cut glass, click here, and for another tutorial on how to attach glass to wood using mirror clips, click here.  Ana White also has a great tutorial on glass front doors here.  For use in this plan, your door can be up to 1" wide, so you can use 2 - 1/2" craft boards just like in her plan.  (You could also rip your 1x2s in half and attach them together.)   Finish your project as desired!  For tips on finishing, check out the Lazy Girl’s Guide to Finishing.

4 Replies to “Dana Media Stand”

        1. Aww… thanks, Martina! 🙂 You were one of my first readers and I really appreciate you! PS- I was just checking in your your dining room reno… I can’t wait to see the finished product!

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