Sunda Storage Bed

 

I do love a challenge.  And, oh boy, this plan was a challenge. I have a Pottery Barn Stratton bed at home, and I love it.  (I DO hate that I paid full retail for it, though.  That was pre-building days for me.)  But, the thing is HEAVY.  When we moved from our upstairs apartment into our current house, we were very thankful that the bed base came apart in 3 pieces so that it was easier to move.  (Even though it was still a beast.)  I will also never forget when we were installing the floors in our new house and we were moving our bed almost every night into a different bedroom, or sometimes the living room, so that the contractor could work the next day.  Did I mention that it was heavy? Remembering the weight of our bed, I didn't want to make plans for a storage bed that was difficult to take apart into smaller pieces and move.  I was extremely conscious of that when making this plan, and you'll notice those modifications as you read it.  For example, instead of using bed slats for the top, I used solid pieces of plywood that you can screw in and then unscrew and slide off when you're ready to move.  The base of the bed is also 2 separate sides, and the headboard is easily detachable and not built in. The other important factor for me is always cost.  Since plywood is always the most expensive thing to buy, I minimized the use of it as much as possible and also spent quite a bit of time on the cutting diagram to make sure everything was laid out in the most economical way possible.  For the top pieces, I also recommended using particleboard instead of plywood as your mattress will cover it entirely, and it costs half as much.  (This plan is designed for a queen sized mattress without a box spring.) I would not recommend this as a first project.  There are a ton of elements to this bed, not to mention that drawers are not the easiest thing to tackle on your first run.  Also, please let me know if you need any help or clarification along the way if you decide to build it - this one is a bit tricky!  But, it will totally be worth it once you have your new, beautiful bed!  (And, at 10% of the cost of Pottery Barn's Sumatra Bed that it's inspired by!) Estimated Cost: $200-250

Dimensions:

See dimensions above.

Shopping List:

Wood:

4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 1 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long 1 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long 1 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long 6 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long 4 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long 1 - 2x6 @ 4 feet long 2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long 1 Sheet of 1/4" A1 Plywood* 3 Sheets of 3/4" A1 Plywood* 2 Sheets of cheap 3/4" Particle Board like this. (You could also use the good A1 plywood here, but no one will see these pieces and they are used only for support. They are hidden under your mattress. I did this because it is the most cost effective option - the particle board is half the price.) *Like Ana White, I am committed to only using Pure Bond plywood in my home so as not to slowly kill off my family with formaldehyde.

Hardware and Supplies:

1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws 1 1/4″ Screws 3″ Screws 4″ Screws 1 1/2" Finishing Nails 4 sets of 20" bottom mount drawer slides Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain

Tools:

Kreg Jig Jigsaw Circular or Table Saw (Optional, to get straighter lines when cutting your plywood. You could also use the Jigsaw for this.) Miter Saw (Optional, but very helpful) Drill Countersink Bit Nailer Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter’s Square Safety Glasses

Cut List:

Boards:

2 - 1x2 @ 78 1/2" - Bottom Trim 2 - 1x2 @ 10 3/4" - Center Trim 2 - 1x2 @ 26 1/4" - Footboard Trim 2 - 1x2 @ 27" - Back Trim (on the headboard side) 1 - 1x2 @ 12 1/4" - Footboard Center Trim 2 - 1x3 @ 54" - Headboard Rails 1 - 1x6 @ 63" - Headboard Top 8 - 1x10 @ 37 7/8" - Drawer Inside Front/Back 8 - 1x10 @ 20 3/4" - Drawer Side 2 - 1x12 @ 22 1/2" - Center Drawer Divider 4 - 1x12 (ripped to 10 1/2" wide) @ 38 1/4" Drawer Front 2 - 2x2 @ 78 1/2" - Cleats 4 - 2x2 @ 13 3/4" - Leg Support 4 - 2x4 @ 12 1/4" - Back Side Trim 4 - 2x4 @ 30 1/2" - Head/Foot Top Trim 2 - 2x4 @ 81 1/2" - Side Top Trim 6 - 2x6 @ 5 1/2" - Feet 1 - 4x4 @ 54" - Headboard Bottom Trim 2 - 4x4 @ 46" - Headboard Side Post

Plywood:

4 - 1/4" PLY @ 37 7/8" x 21 1/2" - Drawer Bottom 2 - 3/4" PLY @ 78 1/2" x 22 1/2" - Bottom Base 2 - 3/4" PLY @ 78 1/2" x 12 1/4" - Back Base 1 - 3/4" PLY @ 54" x 21 1/4" - Headboard Base 2 - 3/4" PLY @ 74 1/2" x 20 1/2" - Top Base 4 - 3/4" PLY @ 27" x 12 1/4" - Head/Foot Sides 1 - 3/4" Particle Board @ 74 1/2" x 13" - Center Bed Support 1 - 3/4" Particle Board @ 54" x 48" - Bed Top (long) 1 - 3/4" Particle Board @ 54" x 26 1/2" - Bed Top (short)

General Instructions:

Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step.  Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact.  (Especially when working with doors and drawers!)  Measure your available space before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.  Please read through the entire plan before getting started.

Step 1:

1/4" A1 Plywood
3/4" A1 Plywood
3/4" Particle Board

Cut plywood as shown in the diagrams.  There will always be scrap leftover in large projects like these - make sure to save them for your next build!  If you're uncomfortable cutting your own plywood (or simply can't get the 4x8 sheets into your car), bring these diagrams into your local blue or orange and they should make at least some of the cuts for you.

Step 2:

Create the "core" of one of your base sides by attaching your center drawer divider to the bottom and back of your drawer base with your Kreg Jig.  You could also counter sink 1 1/4" screws from the back side of the plywood, but the Kreg Jig makes for a stronger hold.  Make sure that there is a 38 7/8" gap on either side of your center drawer divider.

Step 3:

Attach your 2x4 back side trim to the head/foot sides with your Kreg Jig before attaching them to the "core" you made from step 2.  Make sure to leave a 3/4" gap on the front of your 2x4 to allow for your trim in the next step.

Step 4:

Attach 1x2 center and bottom trim with finishing nails and glue as shown above.  Make sure your center 1x2 is centered on the center drawer divider and your bottom 1x2 is flush with the bottom of your center trim.

Step 5:

Miter the edges of your 2x4 top trim at 45 degrees off square as shown above.  (The measurement given represents the distance between the two longest edges.)  Attach your 2x4 top trim to the top of the base using your Kreg Jig.  (Create your Kreg holes on the inside of your head/foot side pieces and the center drawer support.)  When lined up, the edges should be flush with the outside 2x4 back side trim and also the center 1x2 front trim.  Add a few finishing nails from the top for additional support, particularly on the long side piece.  Remember to use wood glue!

Step 6:

 Slide the top base plywood onto the top of your base.  It should fit perfectly into the space in between the 2x4s.  Since this piece will never be seen once your bed is put together, you can place your Kreg Jig holes on the top of the plywood to screw it into the 2x4s.  Also attach it to the center drawer divider either from the top with countersunk 1 1/4" screws or from the inside using your Kreg Jig.

Step 7:

Attach your 1x2 footboard and back (headboard side) trim using finishing nails and wood glue.  On the footboard side, there will be a 3/4" gap at the center.  On the headboard side, it should line up flush with the edge of your plywood.  (When coming back to do the 2nd base unit for the other side of your bed, remember to reverse these pieces so that when the two base units are put together the footboard gap is still on the outside edge.)

Step 8:

Before you start this step, cut a few scrap pieces 3" tall and prop them up underneath your base.  This will give you the height you need and allow you to make sure your inside feet are level to the ground when you line them up.

Attach your long 2x2 cleat first, countersinking it into your base using several 2" screws.  The ends should fit right underneath your 2x4 top trim.  Once that is properly secured, add your 2x2 leg supports by Kreg Jigging them into your 2x2 cleat and also countersinking 2" screws into the back of your base.  Your leg supports should sit 26" from the ends of your cleat leaving 23 1/2" in between them.  It is very important that these pieces are incredibly secure.  They will add a ton of strength to your bed.

Step 9:

Attach your 1x2 footboard center trim onto the edge of your plywood with wood glue and finishing nails.  Leave a 3/4" gap on the outside edge - this is where the other side of your base will slide into it.  (Once you have moved on to the other side, skip this step and DO NOT attach the other side of the 1x2 to it.  You will never be able to pull apart your bed bases to move the bed if you attach it to both sides.)

Step 10:

Repeat steps 2-9 to make the other side of the base.  (Remember on step 7 to be very aware of which side you're working on when attaching that bottom trim!)

Step 11:

Cut the feet out of your 2x6 as shown above using a jigsaw.  (I also have a pretty awesome tapering jig that I got from Rockler that you use with your table saw and consistently cuts the same taper every time.  I highly recommend it if you’d like to make the investment and taper a lot of legs.)

Step 12:

Attach the bed feet as shown above, starting with the feet on the footboard with the tapered edges always going on the outside.  Use your Kreg Jig to attach them to each other first, and then you can attach the solid piece to your bed frame from the inside using your Kreg Jig and wood glue.

Step 13:

Build the inside of your drawers as shown above.  Attach the front, back, and sides from the inside using your Kreg Jig.  The bottom of your drawer can be attached using 1 1/4" finishing nails and wood glue.  (When you attach your bottom mount drawer glides, this will further secure your plywood in place.)

Step 14:

Attach drawer slides to the inside of your drawer bases, leaving a 1" gap on the bottom.  (I know it's hard to get drawer slides right, so lean a little on the higher side if you have to - up to 1 1/4".)  Slide your drawers in and check them before proceeding to the next step.

Step 15:

Line up your drawer fronts in the opening, leaving a 1/8" gap on all sides.  Once the placement is perfect, nail them in place with 1/4" finishing nails and wood glue.

Step 16:

Put your bases aside for now - lets work on the headboard.

Using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4″ screws, attach the plywood to your 4×4 headboard posts with the tops flush.  Leave a 1 3/8″ gap on each side of the front and back of your plywood to create an inset.  (To make this step easier, usually i find a scrap or object that is the width that I need the gap to be and lay it underneath the plywood before I line it up with the posts.  In this case, I would probably create a stack that was 1 3/8″ using a scrap 1x board, a scrap of 1/4″ plywood, and a scrap of 3/8″ plywood to equal the height that I need.  That will create an exact and even surface for you to lay your plywood on and screw in your pocket holes.)  At this time, I would also drill some extra pocket holes on the top and bottom of your plywood piece to prepare for the next steps.

Step 17:

Attach the top of your headboard to the base by using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws in the predrilled holes you created in the plywood on step 16.  For extra stability, attach your top to the 4×4 posts using 2″ screws.  (Make sure to countersink your holes for a clean finish!)  There should be a 1″ overhang on all sides of the board when lined up with your 4x4s.

Step 18:

(This is a back view of the headboard so that you can see where it attaches easier.)  Attach your 4x4 directly underneath your plywood flush with all sides of your post.  For the sturdiest hold, attach the 4x4 to your plywood using your Kreg Jig and countersink 4" screws on either side of your posts. After the bottom trim of your headboard has been secured, attach your headboard rails to your 4x4 posts using your Kreg Jig.  They should be flush with the front of your posts.  (Reference the photo above for where to attach them.

Step 19:

From this step on, DO NOT use wood glue.  This way you will be able to unattach and easily move your bed in the future.  I would also do all of the subsequent steps in the room where this bed will live, otherwise it will get really heavy. Attach your headboard to the bed frame using 1 1/4" screws into your 1x3s from behind.

Step 20:

Screw your center bed support into the two bases, remembering to countersink your screws.  (Remember - no wood glue!)  Along with your headboard, this will unify your two base pieces.

Step 21:

Lay your bed top pieces on top of your bases framed out by your 2x4s.  Screws are optional - these  will stay in place regardless and are just used to support and create a level surface for your mattress.  Before laying them in place, I would also drill a 1/2" hole along the edges to use as finger holes to easily remove them later if you decide to move your bed.

Finish your project as desired!  For tips on finishing, check out the Lazy Girl’s Guide to Finishing.

18 Replies to “Sunda Storage Bed”

  1. Oh Shane,

    I have been silently stalking your blog for a while, but this I just HAVE to say. I have been DREAMING about this bed for the last month, and I am SOOOO STOKED you posted this. LOOOOOOOOVE!!

    Hope you’re well!

    LIEP

  2. was just looking for something like this and found your blog on Ana white! I told my hubby I’d let him buy a kreg jig if he built me a storage bed (building is his thing…). but I loathe trying to re-engineer this to fit our California king mattress. any chance you have a larger size on your agenda?

    1. Hi Shannon! So glad you found us! Ana is just amazing, isn’t she?

      I can see why you’d think this is a nightmare to re-engineer into a CA king… it’s kind of a difficult plan. Lemme see if I can get you a cutlist.

  3. thank you for posting this. 🙂 i am wondering if you have plans for the bed without storage. or if you could tell me what parts i wouldn’t need. if not, no worries!!! many thanks!!

    myra

  4. Hey Shane,

    I’ve been looking at this bed for a long time now trying to work up the nerve to build it for my wife. I have worked in construction for a few years but I have never built furniture like this. In your opinion is it something that an ordinary carpenter can tackle and do a good job? If i’m going to do it i want it to look really good. Kinda nervous to start it and then find out its harder than it looks. Also I dont have some of the tools like a table saw and kreg jig. Are those things a must have on this project? What do you think?

  5. I am building this bed and ran into a problem. 1″ x 12″s are only 11 1/4″ so it is 1/4″ short for the center drawer divider.

    Suggestions? Could plywood be used here since trim is added?

    Love the design!

  6. Hello! I’m so excited and impressed to find this plan on your website! This storage bed is the exact bed I want to build for my son. We just got done building our daughter the famous farmhouse bed from Ana White’s plans. Here’s my question, can I build this without drawers? I would like open storage for baskets but I want to make sure it has a finished look. What do you think? Thanks so much!
    ~ Silkie

    1. Hi there! So glad you found me! Absolutely, I think baskets would look great! Before I learned how to build, my husband and I bought our Stratton bed from PB and have baskets and love the look! Let me know if you decide to go for it!

  7. Hi, great job on the bed and post. I was wondering if you used sketchup for the plans, and if you did would you mind sharing the file?
    Thank you,
    Josh

    1. Hi Josh! Glad you like the bed. I have uploaded it to my Google Warehouse in Sketch-up. If you do a search for OldPaintDesign, my page will come up and you can download the model. Enjoy – and happy building!

  8. i just found you on Ann White’s website and i love this bed, but I really want to make it for my son who currently has a full size matress. Can you get me a cut list PLEASSSSSEEEEEE

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