First and foremost, I want to say thank you. Thank you very much to Ana White for all of your support – you are the reason I, and so many others, ever tried to do anything myself. Thank you so much for all of you who read my little blog. For all of you who comment on my posts and fan the blog on facebook. Old Paint Design has only been around a little over a month, and I already feel an outpouring of love from you guys. You make me want to blog better and build more, so thank you. I blog for myself, so that I can share what I love, but I also blog for all of you. So that I can share what I do and hopefully help you guys to get exactly what you want for a fraction of the price. If I can inspire one person to look at a Pottery Barn catalog or a dream bathroom with determination that they could build it rather than feel the despair of the price tag, I have done my job.
That being said, blogging is not my full time job. I work full time for a Visual Effects company working on feature films. I love my job, but it’s a demanding job, and it demands a lot of my time. Which means I can’t post every day like I would like to. And, I can’t build everything I would like to. But, I want you guys to still be able to frequently get great, quality plans from me, which is why I’m trying this out.
I’m still going to build and DIY every single spare second I have because it’s what I love. But, if I can post awesome plans without necessarily having to build every single one of them, I feel that you guys can only benefit from that. More plans = more opportunities to build = more great furniture in your houses. So, I’m trying this concept out today with some great bed plans… let me know what you guys think!
Another thing that I plan on doing within the next week or so is adding a “suggestion box” to the side of the page so that you guys can submit things that you’d like to see plans for or ways that OPD can improve. I want you guys to get what you want, and I’m here to help you.
I fell in love with another Pottery Barn piece recently. (I’m sure you’re all shocked, haha.) Their Sumatra Bed is just so gorgeous and elegant, but still rustic at the same time. I knew I had to make plans for it. This plan is for a queen sized bed, but they are easily adapted to a full or twin. Check out the plans after the jump!
Approximate Cost: $100-150
1 – 1×4 @ 6 feet long
2 – 1×6 @ 6 feet long
3 – 1×8 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2×6 @ 4 feet long
2 – 4×4 @ 8 feet long
1 Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood*
*Like Ana White, I am committed to only using Pure Bond plywood in my home so as not to slowly kill off my family with formaldehyde.
Hardware and Supplies:
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Screws
Medium Grit Sandpaper
Primer or Wood Conditioner
Paint or Stain
Circular or Table Saw (Optional, to get straighter lines when cutting your plywood. You could also use the Jigsaw for this.)
Miter Saw (Optional, but very helpful)
1 – 1×4 @ 58″ – Headboard Bottom
1 – 1×5 (This is a 1×6 ripped to 4 1/2″ wide.) @ 67″ – Footboard Top
1 – 1×6 @ 67″ – Headboard Top
1 – 1×8 @ 58″ – Footboard Center
2 – 1×8 @ 80″ – Side Rails
2 – 2×4 @ 80″ – Bedframe (long sides)
6 – 2×4 @ 60 1/2″ – Bedframe (short sides)
6 – 2×6 @ 5 1/2″ – Feet
2 – 4×4 @ 46″ – Headboard Side Posts
1 – 4×4 @ 58″ – Footboard Bottom
2 – 4×4 @ 11″ – Footboard Post
1 – 3/4″ PLY @ 58″x30″ – Headboard Base
Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step. Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it’s important that your numbers are exact. (Especially when working with doors and drawers!) Measure your available space and before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.
Using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4″ screws, attach the plywood to your 4×4 headboard posts with the tops flush. Leave a 1 3/8″ gap on each side of the front and back of your plywood to create an inset. (To make this step easier, usually i find a scrap or object that is the width that I need the gap to be and lay it underneath the plywood before I line it up with the posts. In this case, I would probably create a stack that was 1 3/8″ using a scrap 1x board, a scrap of 1/4″ plywood, and a scrap of 3/8″ plywood to equal the height that I need. That will create an exact and even surface for you to lay your plywood on and screw in your pocket holes.) At this time, I would also drill some extra pocket holes on the top and bottom of your plywood piece to prepare for the next steps.
Attach the top of your headboard to the base by using 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws in the predrilled holes you created in the plywood on step 1. For extra stability, attach your top to the 4×4 posts using 2″ screws. (Make sure to countersink your holes for a clean finish!) There should be a 1″ overhang on all sides of the board when lined up with your 4x4s.
Attach the bottom piece flush on each end of the 4x4s at the base of your plywood using your Kreg Jig. (I would drill it into the plywood using your predrilled holes from step 1 and also from the ends of your 1×4 into each of the 4×4 posts using 1 1/4″ screws.)
Put aside your headboard for now to move onto the footboard. Attach the 1×8 to your 4×4 posts just like you did your headboard, leaving 1 3/8″ gap on each side. At this time, I would also predrill those Kreg holes in your 1×8 for the following step.
Your bottom 4×4 should be flush with each side of your side posts. In addition to your Kreg screws into the 1×8, attach it to the posts using 4″ screws on each side.
For the top piece, rip a 1×6 board to 4 1/2″ wide. When you place your board, there should be a 1″ overhang on each side and the front of your footboard. The back should be flush to your posts.
Put aside your footboard for now. Lets build the bed frame.
Here is an awesome trick that I learned from my favorite builder/blogger of all time, Ana. For your bed frame, assemble it as though you were framing a wall, leaving gaps as shown above. (The smaller, 14″ gap should be the headboard side.) You could countersink 2″ screws into the sides to attach, but I would use my favorite joining tool of all: my Kreg Jig. I would set my Kreg Jig to 1 1/2″ stock and use 2 1/2″ screws for a super tight hold. (Remember to use wood glue! It’s important that this piece is incredibly sturdy.)
Cut your bed feet as shown above using a jigsaw. (I also have a pretty awesome tapering jig that I got from Rockler that you use with your table saw and consistently cuts the same taper every time. I highly recommend it if you’d like to make the investment and taper a lot of legs.)
Attach the bed frame to your headboard with 4″ screws from the back, leaving 6″ clearance at the bottom of the post. (If you’d like to be able to unattach it later, don’t use glue.)
Line up your footboard so it is flush with the bottom of the bed frame. Screw them together using 3″ screws from the inside of the bed frame to the base 4×4.
Attach the bed feet as shown above, starting with the feet on the footboard with the tapered edges always going on the outside. Use your Kreg Jig to attach them to each other first, and then you can attach the solid piece to your 4×4 using your Jig and wood glue.
For the feet on the headboard side, attach them with 4″ screws from the back side of the headboard. The outside of the foot should be even with the side of the 4×4 post and the outside of the 1×8 side rail. If you would like to remove the headboard from the bed frame later, make sure not to use wood glue on the headboard side of these back feet.
Finish your project as desired! For tips on finishing, check out the Lazy Girl’s Guide to Finishing.