I've had big plans for this vanity ever since I spied the Lucca Sink Console from Pottery Barn. And, while I love the console, I'm not so in love with the $1700 price tag for the console ONLY, not including the faucet hardware. And, If I got my hardware from Pottery Barn, they charge anywhere from $300-$500 depending on the set. (Holy. Cow.) So, I'm going to try to do what I do best... get the super expensive Pottery Barn look for less. A lot less.
I've named my version of this vanity the Napoleon Sink Console as I am going to attempt to do today what Napoleon did in 1805... conquer Lucca.
The plans that I'm sharing are for the actual Pottery Barn size. Since I have the smallest guest bath in existence, I had to alter the dimensions a bit to get it to fit into a tiny little space. But, I'm really hoping that some of you out there will be able to make the beautiful, full sized vanity to fit into your bathroom!Approximate Cost: $100-150
See full sized dimensions above.
Wood:2 - 1x2 @ 9 ft long 4 - 1x3 @ 8 ft long 1 - 1x4 @ 9 ft long 1 - 1x6 @ 9 ft long 1 - piece of half round molding @ 9 ft long 1 - piece of 2 1/2" base molding @ 9 ft long 1 - Sheet of 3/4" plywood (you will have quite a bit of scrap for your next project)* 1/4 - Sheet of 1/4" plywood* *Like Ana White, I am committed to only using Pure Bond plywood in my home so as not to slowly kill off my family with formaldehyde.
Hardware and Supplies:2 – sets of cheap-o bottom mount 20″ or 22" drawer slides (like these from Home Depot) 2 - sets of Euro Inset Hinges (I prefer these) 1 1/4" Screws 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws 5/8" Finishing Nails 1 1/4" Finishing Nails 2" Finishing Nails Wood Glue Wood Filler Medium Grit Sandpaper Primer or Wood Conditioner Paint or Stain
Tools:Kreg Jig Circular or Jig Saw Miter Saw Drill Countersink Bit Finishing Nailer (This is not necessary, but it will save you quite a few headaches if you have one.) Sander Level Measuring Tape Carpenter's Square Safety Glasses
Cut List:2 - 1/4" PLY @ 24 1/2" x 16 1/4" - Door Back 2 - 1/4" PLY @ 22 3/4 x 4 1/2" - Drawer Bottom 2 - 3/4" PLY @ 35" x 23 1/2" - Side 1 - 3/4" PLY @ 33" x 23 1/2" - Bottom Shelf 1 - 1x2 @ 33" - Base Support 2 - 1x2 @ 35" - Side Trim (front) 3 - 1x2 @ 33" Front Trim 2 - 1x3 @ 19 1/2" - Door Trim (center) 4 - 1x3 @ 24 1/2" - Door Trim (sides) 4 - 1x3 @ 11 1/4" - Door Trim (top/bottom) 4 - 1x3 @ 35" - Side Trim (sides) 4 - 1x3 @ 18 1/2" - Side Trim (top/bottom) 4 - 1x4 @ 3 1/2" - Drawer Back/Inside Front 4 - 1x4 @ 22 3/4" - Drawer Side 2 - 1x6 @ 33" - Back Support 2 - 1x6 @ 5 1/4" - Drawer Front 2 - 1x6 @ 23 1/2" - Drawer Side Support 1 - 1x6 @ 20 1/2" - Fake Drawer Front Base molding and half round cut to fit
General Instructions:Make sure to re-measure and check for square after every step. Sometimes when building your measurements can be off very slightly, and it's important for this plan that your numbers are exact. (Especially when working with doors and drawers!) Measure your available space and purchase your sink before building this plan to make sure that it will fit.
Cut plywood as shown above. My mock-up is based on a full 4′x8′ sheet, but this project is much more ideal if you are able to use up some plywood scrap for the 1/4″ piece.
Attach 1x3 trim along the outside edge of of your plywood with 1 1/4" finishing nails and glue, leaving a 1 3/4" gap between the base and the bottom of your lowest piece of horizontal trim.
Attach your side trim (front) to the side of your base with 1 1/4" finishing nails and glue. Repeat steps 2-3 to create the other side, remembering to put the side trim (front) on the opposite side of the other panel. (The side with the trim will be the front of your vanity.)
Attach 1x6 and 1x2 back and top supports with your Kreg Jig using 1 1/4" screws and wood glue. For the top of the back section, add the 1x2 first to get the positioning of your 1x6 right underneath it. Attach these two pieces together with 1 1/4" screws, remembering to countersink your holes. In addition to the kreg screws, I also attached the 1x2s from the outside with 2" finishing nails to prevent the board from rotating.
Attach the bottom shelf with your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, making sure that it's level. The back of the plywood should fit underneath your base support 1x6.
Step 6:Join the fake drawer front to your drawer side supports using your Kreg Jig before attaching it to the inside of the console. There should be a 5 1/2" gap on either side of the side supports when placed inside the vanity. Kreg Jig the drawer side supports to the 1x6 back support of the vanity using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Attach the top of the fake drawer front to the 1x2 top support using your Kreg Jig. Depending on the size of your sink, you may have to notch out your 1x6s to make room for it. Since my vanity had to be smaller to fit the space, I had to do this. I used my jigsaw to cut out large, rounded rectangles to make room for the sink, making sure to keep the bottom at least 2" high at all times to allow for future drawer slides. If you need this step, make sure to do it first, before attaching them to your fake drawer front. Since this step is a bit complicated, here are a few additional pictures to help. (Please ignore the messy garage :-).)
Attach 1x2 front trim underneath your fake drawer to the sides of your vanity using your Kreg Jig. Use 2" finishing nails to give it some extra support on either side and 1 1/4" finishing nails to attach it to your fake drawer.
Attach base trim to the bottom shelf using 1 1/4" finishing nails and wood glue.
Build your drawer as shown above using your Kreg Jig and 1 1/4" finishing nails. (My drill wasn't big enough to get into the small spaces, so I Kreg Jig-ed one drawer front/back piece to each side and then used 1 1/4" finishing nails to attach the two pieces like a puzzle. Attach the 1/4" plywood base to the bottom of each drawer using 1 1/4" finishing nails and glue.
Attach your drawer slides as shown above to both the drawer and the inside of both the right and left sides of the vanity.
Center the fronts of your drawers into the opening, leaving 1/8" around all sides. When it's in place, attach with 1 1/4" finishing nails.
Attach 1x3 door trim to the your plywood from the back with 5/8" finishing nails and glue. There should be a 4 3/8" space on either side of your center door trim between that and the insides of your side trim. (For a stronger hold, you could kreg jig your 1x3s together from the back prior to attaching them to the plywood.)
Attach each door to the inside of the vanity using your inset hinges, making sure to leave a 1/8" gap on all sides.
Step 12:Attach doors to the vanity using your inset hinges. The best pointer I can give for getting straight doors using inset hinges is a little trick I used from my idol, Ana White: Put your vanity face down and place your doors where you would like them to go, leaving 1/8" along all sides.
Align hinges along the edges and screw in a few of the screws. (I do two screws per hinge on the door side and two on the frame.)
Close your doors and enjoy your new hinges!