Picking up where we left off, I had just finished my last piece of frosted glass in preparation for the closet door build.
With the glass behind me, I focused my attention to the fun part: the building. I’m a bit of an over-planner when it comes to building. Every time I try something new, I always make a scale model of it in sketch-up to make sure it all works out. (Maybe it’s my visual effects background?) I always read about people who are able to buy wood and start building without plans, but I’m just not that cool. For me, the research and planning portion sometimes takes even longer than the actual building.
If you’re like me, click on the following link to view and download the plans and list of materials for my closet doors: OPD_Closet_Door_Plans.
After an hour or two of cutting, gluing, and kreg-jigging, I was left with two gorg panels begging me for some finishing love:
Since all of you are now very aware of my love for spray paint after yesterday’s post, the fact that I also use spray primer should not be surprising. Sometimes I like to not prime before I paint for some of the wood grain to show through, but since we were going for a modern look on these I added the extra step. I also purchased the “odorless” stuff hoping to save me, Brad, and our animals a few brain cells.
Whenever I prime, it always looks to me like I did it wrong. It doesn’t go on in one clean coat like paint does, but once the piece is painted it all blends in.
Following the primer, I used two coats of Rustoleum Semi-Gloss white paint, making sure to sand in between coats.
While I was literally waiting for paint to dry, I decided to tackle the closet hardware.
A few weeks ago, after a lot of searching, I ordered my bypass door hardware from Amazon. I liked this kit since it came as an all-in-one package with all of the parts I needed, and it also came with pretty easy to follow instructions. Other than missing a few pieces when it arrived (more on that later), I was very happy with the kit.
We had some old hardware and track that was still inside of our closet, but it wasn’t pretty. The bottom piece that separates the doors had been painted so many times it looked almost like it was part of the closet. (Plus, it was pretty gross.)
It took quite a bit of prying off with my favorite needle nose pliers, but I finally got it up. The screws that held it on were so stripped down and painted over that I had to individually twist them out. There was even a giant nail straight through the middle of it that had to come up.
The top track was a little easier to remove. There was also quite a bit of weird paint and texture splatter all over it. (I blame our old contractor for this one… he was never very careful with the spray gun.)
Once I unscrewed each of the sides, there was another weird nail right in the middle of the track that I also pulled out. (Why in the world would someone attach a metal track with a framing nailer?) Brad helped me hold up the new track as I screwed it in and took pictures with his other available hand. Multi-talented, that one.
Oh look! Pretty new track sans paint splatter. Much better.
Now that the track and closet were ready to go, I headed back into the garage to finish up the closet doors. In order to attach the glass to the doors, I purchased some adhesive that works on both glass and wood, and also about a million packages of thick mirror clips.
Since no one was ever going to see the inside of our closet, I was lazy and didn’t paint the back side of the doors. (Ssh… don’t tell anyone.) The back sides were also going to become a pretty big mess once I attached the glass. When I cut the glass, I made sure that there would be a little bit of overlap of glass over the wood. I literally glued the glass to the back of the closet doors, centering them over the gap…
… and then secured the mirror clips around the bottom and sides of the glass to ensure no falling glass in the middle of the night.
Here is what a finished piece of secured glass looks like from the back. Notice that I tried to secure the clips on the outside edges so that I wouldn’t have any showing through the glass on the other side.
After all of my clips were secured, I flipped the door over and added the roller hardware onto the front as my handy bypass door kit instructions told me to do. (They suggested attaching them 1/4″ away from the outside edge.)
About now was when I needed some serious man strength and asked Brad to hang the doors up for me. I probably could have done it myself, they weren’t terribly heavy, but it was a lot more fun watching him do it for me. And, apparently he has a lot of practice hanging bypass doors as he and his brother destroyed a few of them growing up. (I pray daily that when we have children we don’t have multiple boys.)
Here is where I should show a super awesome picture of the “after” of both sets of my doors being done and amazing. Well… remember when I mentioned that some of the hardware didn’t arrive with my bypass door order? The pieces that were missing were one set of the rolling track pieces that attach to the doors. Yeah, it kind of sucks. (I promise I will update with completed double doors once my hardware arrives.) So, until I get the rest of my order, I have a real life “before and after” picture of my doors. No photoshop required, folks!
But, seriously, HUGE improvement. The doors are exactly what we needed to add a little bit of visual interest to our bedroom and hide all of our stuff at the same time.
For all of the number crunchers out there, here is my cost breakdown for the entire project:
Lumber: $25 (I had a few leftover 1x6s and a bunch of scrap that I never ended up using for another project. If you were buying all of the lumber without any scrap, it would probably be about $50.)
Glass (first round): $75 for 6 pieces at $12.38/piece
Glass (second round after I broke some): $7 (I was able to get a smaller piece since I was only short one panel.)
Mirror Clips: $32 for 16 of them
Glass Cutting Kit: $13 (this thing was a total piece of garbage. Buy the cutter only without the kit and save yourself some money.)
Mirror to Wood Adhesive: $3.50
Rustoleum Glass Frosting Spray Paint: $15 for three cans
Killz Spray Primer: $18 for 3 cans
Rustoleum White Semi-Gloss Spray Paint: $16 for four cans
Two Bypass Door Hardware Kits: $37.50
Total Cost of Project: $226 for both sets of doors
While I’m sure I could have done this project for much cheaper than $113 per door set if we wanted to go builder grade, I’m really glad we didn’t. It really adds a unique touch to our room, and we are thrilled with the results. A few months prior, I asked for a quote for something similar to be created and installed by a professional closet door company, and they told me that it would cost $1000 per door (!!!). Knowing that, I’m still considering this money saved.